For generations, cocido was strictly a home-cooked meal, but modern-day madrileños increasingly seek it out at restaurants. Typically, the dish arrives at the table in three courses, known as tres vuelcos. The Spanish have an expression, “sota, caballo, y rey” (knave, horse, and king), derived from a deck of cards. According to Miguel Ullibarri—a former madrileño who lives in Cádiz and ..